Text: M. Zisso; Photo: Václav Pavlas
It’s not a big secret that I love Thailand. I have visited this beautiful country several times, and have explored its beauty from Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in the north to Phuket and the islands in the south. This time, we decided to have a more active holiday, at places we hadn’t yet visited. Let me share some of my freshest Thai experiences here, and who knows? It might even inspire you to pay a visit to some of the lovely places I am about to recall now.
Day 1 – suits, culture, and a big surprise
Our flights were on time. We landed in Bangkok at 1pm. Everything at the airport went smoothly. After about 45 minutes, we were in the taxi we had ordered in advance via booking.com.
Our hotel in Bangkok was a small, nice hotel close to Silom Road. We had a few hours for arrangements: exchanging money at “superrich” (Jewellery Trade Centre, 3rd floor) and finding a good fit-made suits tailor.
There are dozens of tailor’s shops around. Popping up from shop to shop, the prices and the quality vary. We chose our tailor at Silom Road, after a short time. We had the feeling that he was the best, and that we could trust him. “Carlos Bespoke”, Silom Road 284\6.
If you want to get perfect suits, then don’t wait until the last moment. They can make it in 24 hours, but
it’s better to make it sooner in order to have time for several fittings. We ordered three handmade suits. For that price, in Prague, you can only buy one suit of the same quality. We picked up the suits on our last day in Bangkok.
We missed Thai culture, so late in the afternoon of the same day we saw Saranrom Park, Wat Ratchabophit Sathitmahasimaram Ratchaworawihan and Wat Rajapradit Sathitmahasimarama.
The evening came, which was time for our first Thai dinner. Just a few steps from our hotel, was a BIG surprise. A hidden family restaurant, established by three sisters who wanted to share their home recipes. They’ve been running the restaurant for 30 years. Harmonique Restaurant, no. 22 Charoenkrung 34 Wat Muang Kae, Bangkok. Open daily from 11am until about 8pm. Like other customers, we fell in love with the food, which was rich with herbs and spices, the atmosphere, and the service. The design is unique, under the roots of a big old tree.
Harmonique Restaurant
Day 2 – in the good hands of Mr. Beer
On the second day, we woke up very early to reach the Khao Yai National Park (about a 3-hour drive from Bangkok). Thanks to H.E. Mrs. Ureerat Chareontoh, a former Ambassador in Prague (now Director General of Thailand International Cooperation Agency), we got in contact with a very good and reliable tour operator that helped us with all of our transportation in Thailand – www.trekkingthailandtour.com. They have a love and passion for nature, wildlife, and the beauty of the colourful Thai local ways of life, as well as being experienced tour guides, specialized in each branch of nature. We were in good hands to ensure that our trip would go smoothly.
Khao Yai National Park is the third largest in Thailand. It is important at the global and ASEAN level, being one of the Natural World Heritage Sites.
It is home to several important watersheds of rich biological diversity, where many important, rare, and endangered species live. This includes over 280 species of birds, making it popular with bird watchers from around the world.
Our tour guide, Mr. Beer, was an expert who knew all the hidden points to see those birds and animals, and who also had the specialized equipment for it. We saw the Great Hornbill birds, a few kinds of monkeys, gibbons, and other tropical wildlife.
After a full day of adventuring, we arrived back to Bangkok, tired but very excited and happy.
Trekking Thailand Tour team
Day 3 – Bangkok
The 3rd day was dedicated to seeing Bangkok. We visited a few of those highlighted places from our previous visits, but also felt the need to experience more similarly beautiful places.
For the first time ever, we decided to use public transportation, and take bus number 1 (10 Bahts per person) from our hotel to the Grand Palace, about a 15-minute ride away (remember to be dressed properly – long trousers and a shirt with sleeves).
It’s one of the most beautiful palaces in the world. Take your time to explore every building and temple that is open to the public.
From the Grand Palace, we went to Wat Phra Chetuphon (Wat Pho), and then to the National Museum, which is about a 15-minute walk away. On the way, we stopped at a few beautiful temples.
After a day of exploring, we went back to our hotel, and then for dinner to have more tasty food at the hidden restaurant under the tree roots.
Day 4 – Ayutthaya
A car with a driver from Trekking Thailand tour picked us up at our hotel, and we left the capital city of Bangkok for the ancient capital of Ayutthaya. We booked a beautiful Thai villa room at “Athithara Homestay”, a place run by the family that gives you a feeling of a homestay.
First, we went to visit the Bang Pa-in Palace (about a 20-minute drive).
When you look at the pictures, you will see how we toured the city. However, the best way to see Ayutthaya, Thailand’s old capital, is by Tuk Tuk. The payment is per hour, driving you from site to site around this big area:
- Wat Lokaya Sutharam, with a huge reclining Buddha
- Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon (the temple with a huge number of Buddhas), Wat Phanan Choeng Worawihan and Wat Chaiwatthanaram (the huge river temple complex), and Wat Kasattrathirat
- Srinagarindra Park goes to Ayutthaya Historical Park, including four temples: Wat Phra Ram,
Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mahathat, and Wat Ratchaburana. Wat Phra Ram – a temple complex with a huge prang, next to it is Wat Phra Si Sanphet – a temple with the three Chedis, Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, Ayutthaya Elephant Palace & Royal Kraal, then Wat Mahathat – a temple with the Buddha head in a tree, and Wat Ratchaburana – the temple with a prang - Wat Maha That
- Wat Phanan Choeng Worawihan
- Wat Thammikarat, with lion figures around a chedi. A huge number of roosters.
Our accommodation was nicely located only a 5-minute walk from a very nice Thai food restaurant with live music, De Riva Ayothaya.
Day 5 – Thai waters
Our driver arrived on time to take us (about a 3-hour drive) to the Erawan National Park, one of the most popular falls in Thailand. The major attraction of the park is the 7-tiered Erawan Falls, with emerald-green ponds. The trail from level 1 to level 4 is pretty easy. There are also several impressive and long caves within the park, some of them deeper inside the park, and a few of them along the roads around the park. The park and the falls are named after the three-headed white elephant of Hindu mythology. The top tier of the falls is said to resemble an elephant head. You can enjoy yourself there for a full day.
Late in the afternoon, we set off on our way to the next very special hotel at Kwai River.
There are a few hotels on the Kwai River. We chose the “River Kwai Jungle Rafts – SHA Extra Plus”, H/B (there are more luxury hotels there). You can only reach the hotel by boat, operated every hour.
It’s a very “natural” hotel, without electricity, air conditioning, or even a fan, and with no mobile signal or WIFI. The accommodation is on the river, with a nice terrace and a great view. The main attraction is natural water sliding on the river – HUGE FUN.
During the evening and the night, the hotel is laminated with candles and old kerosene lanterns.
Day 6 – more water
A full day of activities and relaxing at the Kwai River. We started our morning by feeding the rescue elephant, and then having a nice breakfast.
Day 7 – floating in daylight, flying at sunset
We took the 8am boat, and joined our driver again. After about 2 hours, we quickly visited Hin Khao Ngu Park, and a religious monument regarding Buddhism.
We then continued to our next hotel, Maikaew Damnoen Resort, a charming Thai-style hotel.
A short walking distance from the hotel is the Damneon Saduak Floating Market. The best time to visit is in the morning – at about 4pm most of the shops are in the process of closing for the day. Take a boat on the channels, do some shopping, and enjoy Thai food at the local restaurants.
Just before sunset, we went to visit Wat Khao Chong Phran, and it was a big surprise for me. Millions of bats fly from the cave to find food. We were there for over an hour, and they still kept on leaving the cave, making the sky black.
Day 8 – among life-risking vendors
From one very special Floating Market to another unique one, the Mae Klong Train Market, commonly called Siang Tai (life-risking) Market. It is considered one of the most amazing attractions in Thailand. Perhaps you remember it from one of the James Bond movies. Spreading over 100m in length, this market is located by the railway, near Mae Klong Railway Station. It is a common fresh market, selling seafood, vegetables, fruits, fresh and dried food, meats, and other miscellaneous goods. The market is called the ‘life- risking’ market because its stalls are attached to the Mae Klong-Ban Laem railway, which is a short railway line running to and from Mahachai and Mae Klong.
Vendors at the market put out parasols or canvases to protect themselves against the sun. The shelters stick into the railway, where visitors walk and do their shopping. When each signal of the arriving train rings, chaos takes place: vendors will rush to close their parasols and canvases, along with clearing all goods that will obstruct the oncoming train, arriving at great speed. Once the train passes, the parasols and canvases will be reopened as goods are again put into their usual place next to the railroad. Trains arrive at Mae Klong Station at 8:30am, 11:10am, and 5:40pm.
After a short drive, we reached Tham Khao Luang – a cave temple with beautiful numerous Buddha shrines, and with monkeys living there. And Wat Bun Tawee (Wat Tumklaeb).
We then headed to visit a panoramic place over the city Phra Nakhon Khiri. Locals know the place as Khao Wang, the hill with a palace. We went up in a cable car to the complex, built by King Mongkut as a summer palace.
And Wat Khoi, and Wat Mahathat Worawihan, and Wat Khao Ban Dai It…
We had our dinner at a very nice American-style restaurant, with good Thai food.
Day 9 – do you like birds?
We start our 9th day by visiting Pran Buri Forest Park, a small mangrove forest park popular for its mangrove forest walk and birds.
We then went to the Sirinart Rajini Ecosystem Learning Centre, followed by Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. The park is home to a great diversity of bird species, making it a great destination for birdwatchers. It is one of the best places in Thailand to see waterbirds, as well as the Phraya Nakhon Cave. A small boat took us from the park to the other side of the mountain. To reach the cave, you need to climb about 500m. It’s worth the effort. It’s a large cave, which has a hole in the ceiling, allowing sunlight to penetrate. At the top of the hole, there is a stone bridge known as a„death bridge“ because many wild animals have fallen to their deaths from it. You can also find a beautiful temple there.
Then, it was off to our last destination before calling it a day, Kui Buri National Park. This is home to one of the biggest populations of gaurs (a massive wild ox) in Thailand, with an estimated 100 individuals and around 320 elephants. The tour takes about 3 hours, and you can see wild elephants, as well as golden jackals, various deer, langurs, white-handed gibbons, Burmese hares, Malayan porcupines, and wild boars.
The last days of the fairy tale
After a few hours of driving, we arrived at our last destination, to relax in for a few days before going back home to cold Europe – Coral Hotel Bangsaphan.
It is an ECO 3-star hotel (like 4 stars in Europe) located on the beach, with luxury accommodation, a swimming pool, and an a la carte restaurant.
I’d planned four days of relaxing and just enjoying the quiet, but they offered a few half-day excursions that we just couldn’t resist. We explored the area close to the Burmese border, and saw how rubber is made from the rubber tree.
The day after, we took a water trip, visiting three islands – Koh Tin, Koh Tan, and Koh Thalu. A great opportunity to snorkel on this beautiful bay, with all kinds of fish and corals.
Carlos, the tailor
After two more days of relaxing, we headed back to Bangkok to pick up our handmade suits from the tailor, and enjoy a great dinner. Before heading to our evening flight back, we took our last tour in Bangkok for this visit: the Chinese Quarter, and the Wat Traimit Withayaram Worawihan, with the golden Buddha.
Goodbye, Thailand! You were good to us, and we will come back.
5 PROVEN TIPS FOR TRAVELLERS
Visa
Check in advance if you need a visa or e-visa (https://www.thaievisa.go.th/). Not all passports have the same benefits, not even all EU countries. If you need a visa, arrange it in advance at the Thai Embassy. If you can get an e-visa on arrival, find the form and print it out. Have some ID photos and Thai Bahts with you.
Flights
There are no direct flights from Prague to Bangkok. There are, however, many ways to get there. We flew with Emirates via Dubai.
Driving
In Thailand, you drive on the opposite side of the road (like in the UK). We got a car with a driver from a reliable company.
Dress Code
To enter temples and palaces you need to wear long trousers and a shirt with sleeves.
Exchanging Money
Don’t do it at the airport (only a small amount if you need it). The best places for exchanging money in Bangkok are probably “Superrich”. We got 5 more Bahts per Euro. It’s best to bring large Euro or Dollar notes (50 or 100).